The legendary wine-producing area known as Burgundy includes five regions. The best known and most prestigious wines come from Chablis or Côte d’Or, which encompasses the famous Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. The southern part of Côte d’Or continues into the fragmented and less explored Côte Chalonaise and Mâconnais area. Beaujolais represents the most southern region.

Due to variations in the continental climate and differences in terroir each of Burgundy’s five major wine-producing regions represent a unique character and identity. Of all the world’s great wine regions, Burgundy is widely seen as one of the most difficult to understand. As an example the Côte is subdivided into some 28 different villages with their own appellation. Those comprising the northerly sector, from Marsannay to Corgoloin, are collectively known as the Côte de Nuits – based on the town of Nuits-St.-George, while those adjoining them to the south, from Ladoix-Serrigny to Santenay, as the Côte de Beaune- based on the rather larger town of Beaune.

Add to this four separate quality levels, innumerable individual vineyard sites, and several thousand growers. With very few exceptions, ownership of each vineyard is divided among several different growers, each the proprietor of designated vines, from which he makes his own wine. For example no fewer than 82 individual owners exist for the Grand Cru vineyard, Clos de Vougeot, which in theory makes it possible to line up 82 bottles in any given vintage, each bearing the name of a different producer. In addition, domains differ considerably: some consistently produce magnificent wine, some manage excellence occasionally, and for others, one keeps the proverbial barge-pole permanently to hand.

Finally, the region has also suffered needless, selfinflicted harm from giving its name to too much mediocre wine. Poor quality blurs differences between appellations, making wine form one village taste much like that from another, and when expensive Grand Cru turns out dilute and meagre compared with Village wine at one-fifth of the price, the credibility of the grading system and the image of the region crumbles.

Fortunately all these challenges can be boiled down to the fact that the name of the producer is the single most reliable indicator of quality, transcending even the grading of the vineyard or the vintage. The grower/Domaine is therefore the key to unlocking Burgundy. Unfortunately, most of these Domaines have been closed for new clients for years! However, new stars show up all the time making it possible to come across a good bargain leaving you with the taste of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and plum and if you keep it, the cherry becomes more scented, the plums turn to prunes, and wood and chocolate might finally mingle with truffles and over-hung game.

Since covering Burgundy thoroughly would take several books, the aim of this short presentation is limited to sharing some of our experiences and to salute the owners of selected Domaines whom we have followed and known for several years and allow ourselves to consider as friends.

Although Chablis can be reached from Beaune after some one hour trip on the A6 its not on our road to Burgundy or Southern France. For the same reason we have not yet been regular customers here. Another important reason being, that major diversity exists as the styles of Chablis available and consumers need to identify what style of Chablis they prefer!

The consequences of decisions made by INAO in 1976 removing the reference to Chablis should be grown on a subsoil of Kimmeridgian limestone and taking into account all factors, including microclimate, for classification, expanded greatly the PC and Chablis area and many of the new vineyards are claimed dubious. Add to this that several subparcels can be included in a well know PC ie. the PC of Vaupulent, Côte de Fontenay, Vaulorent and l’Homme Mort can be included in Fourchaume. It is hard to understand the rationale behind imposing less known PC on flagship PC. Finally, crop yields, the use of oak barrels for fermentation or aging, and the degree to which the wine is processed highly influence the individual styles of wine. The seven GC all lie on the north/right bank of the Serein River, sitting on the richest Kimmeridgian limestone soil. On the north bank you also find the best PC. The production from these sloping hillsides often turns out the finest and most dependable wines. Compared to the white burgundies from Côte d’Or, they are more acidic with a characteristic steely mineral content and distinctive flavor.

Within the family, we do not fully agree on style, some of us like Chablis that is fermented and aged in stainless steel, while others like barrel-fermented and oak-aged Chablis. However, we all agree that the following domains are highly recommendable and their wines fairly priced: Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin; Domaine Corinne et Jean-Pierre Grossot

The bedrock, soil, drainage and microclimate change repeatedly, and for the same reasons the wines of the villages along the hillside might taste different, just as major variations exist within each commune. For these reasons generalizations are hard to make! Côte de Nuits produces almost exclusively red wine, while Côte de Beaune produces both red and white wines.

Broadly speaking, the reds of Côte de Nuits tend to be fuller, slightly more tannic and robust, have more richness and length than those of the Côte de Beaune, and they often take longer to mature. The red wines from Côte de Beaune offer slightly less body, less tannin, but represent a marvelous source of large quantities of elegant reds, often filled with aromas and flavors of red fruits. However, one should always be aware of exceptions like Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée to the north, and Corton and Pommard to the south!

The white wines of Côte de Beaune (Corton-Charlemagne, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Moutrachet) might represent, at their best, the most famous and delicious white wines from the Chardonnay grape in the world, but also the most expensive. Again major differences are observed between the long-lived and rich Corton-Charlemagne, the nutty luscious, easy-to-drink Meursault, the elegant and steely Puligny-Montrachet and the opulent, fleshy Chassagne-Montrachet.

The Côte de Beaune area is the southern part of the Côte d’Or, the limestone ridge that is home to the great names of Burgundy wine. The Côte de Beaune starts between Nuits-Saint-Georges and Beaune, and extends southwards for about 25 km to the River Dheune. The trend of producing red wines continues from the Côte de Nuits to the north, down through Beaune, although the wines become lighter and more perfumed. Farther south lie the great names of white Burgundy such as Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet. The far south of the district sees a return to red wines in Santenay that continues across the Dheune into the Côte Chalonnaise. This mix of Pinot noir and Chardonnay grapes reflects geology in the southern Côte d’Or that is more variable than in the north.

The Côte de Nuits is a French wine region located in the northern part of the Côte d’Or, the limestone ridge that is at the heart of the Burgundy wine region. It extends from Dijon to just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges, which gives its name to the district and is the regional center. Though some white and rosé wines are produced in the region, the Côte de Nuits is most famous for reds made from pinot noir. The Côte de Nuits covers fourteen communes. Six produce grand cru wines, in the central district between Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-Saint-Georges, with four lesser villages either side. The Grand Crus of the Cote de Nuits are some of the smallest appellations in France, less than a hectare in the case of La Romanée.

With a few exceptions this region was previously known for its cooperatives and mass-production of modest wine to be drunk as early as possible. Wine enthusiasts often sarcastically referred to the overpriced and most renoved appellation as ”Pussy-Fussy” or ”Pouilly-Fools”. However, a new generation of growers are presently paving the way for barrel-fermented, complex wines from low yields, different from those of Côte d’Or. Things are, however, not yet rosy and a fair part of the production is therefore still declassified into Bourgogne Blanc, which might be easier to sell than Mâcon.

The vineyard area is slightly larger than that of Chablis and includes the following appellations: Mâcon, Mâcon plus village name (26), Mâcon-Villages, Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, St-Véran and Viré-Classé. With the exception of Mâcon (Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir), the other appellations include white wines only (Chardonnay). Single-vineyard bottlings are not pursued to the same extend as in Côte d’Or.

Visiting the stunning area of Mâconnais might start to the north in the village of Chardonnay, which might have given the famous grape variety its name. From here you simply follow the Route du Vin signs which takes you to the magnificent cliffs of Soultré and Vergisson, pastoral hillsides and the picturesque villages of Fuissé, Loché and Solutrè in the southern sector. A worldwide obsession with the Chardonnay grape has resulted in overproduction and less interesting wine. Instead of looking for ”diluted” Mâcon-Village or overpriced Pouilly-Fuissé, you should look for a less known, but delicious Beaujolais Blanc or a Saint-Vérans, which are cheaper and significantly better than most Pouilly-Fuissés.

A good Mâcon-Village should be fresh and fruity with a creamy, applelike character. A good Saint-Véran is more concentrated, richer and riper wine, than the best Mâcon-Village. It can have a seductive, soft, creamy, apple-fruitiness. Marvelous wines also emerge from a growing number of producers of Pouilly-Fuissé. But who wants to pay a high price for mediocrity?

Vineyards of the Rhône strech some 200 km from Vienne to Avignon. Two separate areas exist: the northern Rhône (NR) between Condrieu south of Vienne and St. Péray, and the southern Rhône (SR) making up the rest. This area has held vineyards since Roman times, owned by hands – on workers.

Major differences exist between NR og SR. In many ways the NR is more similar to Burgundy than SR. Like Burgundy, plots are tiny, including many lieux-dits which are worked and announced with pride. The terroir is superb and even more complex than that of Burgundy. In addition, the best domaines are generally family owned. Like Burgundy grows the Pinot Noir at the northern limit of its ripening, so the NR has the Syrah at the northern limit of its ripening. To the north, apellations generally only allow a single grape, while the AC in SR permits a selection from which growers can choose and blend. In NR the Syrah grape dominates resulting in deep, long-lived red Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, St. Joseph and Cornas. Excellent whites are made from the delicate Viognier in Condrieu, while a more muscular white Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St. Joseph and St. Péray are made from Marsanne and Rousanne grapes. Differences in climate and topography also separate NR from SR. To the north steep terraces and hillsides and a continental climate have formed the growers, who might spend days repairing the slopes after heavy rain. Sitting on a tractor here is not a habit! In SR you find vineyards in a flat/undulating ladscape including cypresses, fields of sunflower and purple lavender, and houses with terracotta roofs in a Mediterranean climate.

ACs of the NR include Côte Rôtie, Condrieu, Chateau Grillet, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St. Joseph, Cornas and St. Peray, in addition to less interesting ACs. While men of the soil have dominated a modest past, new attention on NR came from Robert Parker, who called Marcel Guigal one of the best winemakers of the planet, and the progress since the 1980ies can be boiled down to Guigal and his international impact. As a result, areas under vine has increased significantly. However, quality has not followed, just as less dedication of the vigneron to their land has been observed – technique now dominating over terroir! In the early 1990ies the NR belonged to our hunting grounds. Since then prices have outstripped quality. Value for money has left us only with Hermitage, the prices of which also have reached a level where you look for alternatives.

An AC practically still unheard of outside the Rhône Vally is Cornas. Here you still find men of the soil, who take pride of their land and make very good, little exposed wines, priced with honesty.

The cornerstones bringing exitement to our annual visits still include Chateuneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Vaqueyras and Carianne.

To most people the southern sector is known for producing a vast volume of low-priced, baseline, heady Côtes du Rhône of marginal interest, lacking finesse and complexity. However, this sector has many other wines to offer, particularly from its greatest appellations, but a series of very good, little exposed wines from the AC Côtes du Rhône Village might also be obtained. The SR strectches from south of Montélimar to Avignon. ACs of interest in the SR include Chateuneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Lirac, Tavel and Côte du Rhône Village. Differences separating these wines from those of the northern Rhône have been stated under northern Rhône. As for other regions, major diversity exists in styles, but final quality always depend on vine age, winemaking potential, individuality, and in particular, yield for high-cropping vines like Syrah and Grenache.

Both white – and red wines have improved significantly during the past decades. Including Marsanne, Viognier and in particular Rousanne have resulted in fresher and more rich whites, while improvements of the reds have come from increasing the content of Syrah and Mouvédre grapes, healthier grapes, destemming and attention to maximise extration of colour, tannins, aromas, and flavours, prudent use of oak, and earlier bottling to preserve fruit flavours and aromas.

The villagein Vaucluse department of is set on top of a gently rising hillock, the old part of which is on the top of the hill surrounded by old ramparts which date back to the 12th century. A pathway along the ramparts, made by the Templar Knights, affords panoramic views of Mount Ventoux and Mont Saint-Andéol. Cairanne is easily visible for miles around on the surrounding plain.

Many wines of Carianne represent top quality of the Côtes du Rhône Village category, and it is very hard to understand why Cairanne has not yet received full appellation status like Gigondas (1971), Beaumes de Venise (1976/2005), Vacqueyras (1989), Vinsobres and Rasteau (2010).

The red Côtes du Rhone Village Carianne has to meet the following conditions: max 42 hl/ha, vines trained on low wires or en gobelet, min 12.5% alcohol and subjected analysis and control including tasting. Red wine includes min 50% Grenache, min 20% Syrah and or Mouvèdre and other grape varieties of the Appellation Côtes de Rhone (up to 20%). Our prime aim is selecting domaines seeking mouth-filling wine of elegance and finesse rather than muscles and longevity.

The village of CdP sits on a hillside encircling app. 3,300 ha of vineyard split between some 300 growers, most of which make and bottle their own wine. The solitary tower of the Papes summer residence, build by pape John XXII between 1318 and 1333, at the top of the village, makes up the local landmark. From here, you have a magnificient view with vines on all sides and the village below. The castle remained almost intact until August 1944, when German forces blew it up! The vineyards are bounded to the west by the Rhône and to the east by A7. It stretches some 15-20 km south-east from Orange.

Although red CdP by tradition has been dominated by Grenache Noir accounting for some 60% of plantings, a total of eight red and five white grapes for freshness are allowed, and a consensus among growers as to what proportion and blend of grapes makes an ideal CdP will never become a reality. All 13 varieties are allowed to be fermented together or separately. CdP derives an essential element of its character from being an assemblage of different grapes and terroirs, but grape variety has no logic. It represents what was most widely planted, when the AC rules were made.

A wide diversity of soil types exists, scattered throughout the appellation, and understanding the geology is essential to understanding its wine. The most characteristic feature of the area is the large smooth stones (galet roulés). These terracotta coloured stones, varying in size, are the deposits left by ancient Alpine glaciers. They add to maturity by absorbing the heat during daytime and giving it back after sundown. Due to the existence of distinct soil types, growers are happy to have their wine spread out in different parcelles.

Planting density is only 1/3-1/2 of that of Hermitage, and yields are restricted to 35 hl/ha. Only manual harvest is allowed, and a minimum of 5% of each years crop is discarded. Triage is obligatory. These days a common red mix includes 50-70% Grenache, 20-30% Syrah, 10-20% Mouvédre and a splash of the minor varieties, but flexibility results in a wide diversity from virtually 100% Grenache to using all 13 permitted grapes, and typicity does not exist. The same is valid for vinification. This means you might always come across a CdP which please your taste!

White CdP, which accounts for 5-8% of the toal production, comes from any or all of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Rousanne, Bourboulenc, Terret Blanc and Picardin. Major improvements have resulted in a fresher style, but with a few exceptions these wines are ment for early drinking. Although major progress has been made, too much indifferent wine comes into the market compromising the efforts of those dedicated to quality. A fashion for superior cuvées, representing a selection of better lots or older vines might also diminish the quality of what remains! In addition, we are also left with the impression that some put everything into top labels, and prices have increased significantly.
For these reasons, our interest in CdP has dereased with one exception: Domaine Clos Mont Olivet, run by the Sabon brothers, Jean-Claude, Pierre and Bernard. This is the place were you get value for money.

To us a visit to this attractive village with its panoramic view is a must, just as tastings in the well-stocked Caveau de Vignerons to follow the dynamic growers. Our favorite domaines include domaine Raspail-Ay, domaine Saint Gayan, and domaine Les Palliéres which was bought by the Brunier brothers (domaine du Vieux Télégraphe), when Pierre Roux retired.

Underneath the spiking Dentelles and the ruined chateau, used as a hunting lodge by the Princes of Orange in the 17th century, you find the attractive, compact, little village of Gigondas, which was rewarded with its own AC in 1971. From here you have a staggering scenic view over the Ouvéze plain. Most of the appellation land is now planted with some 1.200 ha under vine. The Gigondas rules permit only red or rosé from saignée, base yield including 35 hl/ha. Maximum permitted Grenache Noir includes 80%, the Syrah and Mouvédre together or separately constitute minimum 15%, while Cinsault and Clairette are allowed to make up 5% maximum. However, since the rules apply to the vineyard and not to the contents of the vats, proportions vary widely in the finished wines.

It is from the middle slope (some 300 m above sea level) that Gigondas is said to draw its finesse and guiding structure, while the partly sandy, partly stony plain around the river Ouvéze is supposed to supply the wines typical robustness. The steepest hillsides (up to some 500 m), which are tucked against the Dentelles, help to balance out the high alcoholic content of the wine. Variations in style occur as a result of cellar treatment and variations in vineyards. The wine is always sold simply as Gigondas followd by the name of the growers domaine. Climats are not stated. Once bottled, Gigondas needs a further 2-3 years to develope harmony between its bouquet and strong flavour. The ideal ages to drink Gigondas are generally between five and 10 years. Gigondas is always a wine of great depth and colour, one of the best and deepest red wines of the southern Rhone. Bright summerdays are not ment for drinking Gigondas, although more elegant styles with smoother tannins for early drinking are available.

The wines of WA have a short history and vieilles vignes are very rare compared to Europe. The WA wines include the regions of Swan, Perth Hills, Peel, Geographe, Margaret River, Blackwood, Manjimump, Pemberton (Pemberton has become synonymous with wines of an extraordinary quality and is often compared ot the Burgundy region of France. Pemberton boasts many gold medal wines and Gold Plate awards, and holds the mantle of being the most awarded tourism town in WA) and Great Southern. The Great Southern – subregions include Frankland River, Denmark, Mt. Barker, Porongurup and Albany. This is a huge area including thousands of wineries, and it is very difficult to get an overview on the web.

As a foreigner you should bring Ray Jordan’s “Guide to the Wine of Western Australia” designed to help the wine tourist to get on the road and visit the cellar door. Although you might have your favourites do no miss the tight and crisp Semillon Sauvignon blanc, a WA brand in its own right. A strong focus on premium wine with the accompanying reputation for quality, has added to a healthy reputation of WA wine.On my way to visit the Potteroo Project at Two Peoples Bay I had the opportunity to pass and visit Margaret River, Pemberton and Denmark.

Pinot noir tasting
As a Pinot Noir/Burgundy freak I had looked very much forward to tasting these wines mostly based in Great Southern which has a climate claimed to meet the requirements of Pinot. I went tasting at Somerset Hill some 17 km’s west of Denmark. The wines are situated some 220 meter above sea level. The north facing slopes and free-draining soils are said to provide a chance of producing a wine as unique as the location! In great WA vintages such as 1999 and 2001 excellent wines which might rival the best of the world might be produces as demonstrated for their 2001 Pinot noir in blind tasting in Copenhagen.

Tasted 2003 and 2004. Although 2004 has been claimed to be a year of excellent possibility the grapes might have done better as a rosé! Surely it is not fair to juge on Pinot based upon this experience. However, having tasted several other Pinot’s during my stay in Australia, it surely takes time to take the Pinot’s to the level I find in France. Add to this that prices claimed do to leave you in doubt what to pick in WA.Generally, the Cabernets and Shiraz are the best red wine options in WA while the Riesling is the best for whites. However, do not forget the Semillon Sauvignon blance blend.

In Margaret River I did tasting at Sandelford Wines owned by the Prendiville family. Planted in 1970, the original Cabernet and Shiraz vines are some of the oldest in the region.

Unfortunately the Sauvignon blanc Semillon 2007 (92/100) was sold out, but managed to taste Shiraz 2004 95/100; Best of the West 2008) and Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (94/100). The Shiraz was powerful with a dense, rich palate, and lots of ripe savoury Shiraz character. The Cabernet was stylish with ripe tannins, a firm core, and plenty of deeply intense flavour.

The wines of Western Australia have a short history and vieilles vignes are very rare compared to Europe. The WA wines include the regions of Swan, Perth Hills, Peel, Geographe, Margaret River, Blackwood, Manjimump, Pemberton (Pemberton has become synonymous with wines of an extraordinary quality and is often compared ot the Burgundy region of France. Pemberton boasts many gold medal wines and Gold Plate awards, and holds the mantle of being the most awarded tourism town in WA) and Great Southern. The Great Southern – subregions include Frankland River, Denmark, Mt. Barker, Porongurup and Albany. This is a huge area including thousands of wineries, and it is very difficult to get an overview on the web.

As a foreigner you should bring Ray Jordan’s “Guide to the Wine of Western Australia” designed to help the wine tourist to get on the road and visit the cellar door. Although you might have your favourites do no miss the tight and crisp Semillon Sauvignon blanc, a WA brand in its own right. A strong focus on premium wine with the accompanying reputation for quality, has added to a healthy reputation of WA wine.

On my way to visit the Potteroo Project at Two Peoples Bay I had the opportunity to pass and visit Margaret River, Pemberton and Denmark.